In The Garden

In the Garden

Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener

     When we speak of migration, we usually think of the migration of animals with the seasons.  We are aware that some birds that spend the summer here go south in the winter, and other birds come from more northern climates to winter here in southern Indiana.  We also know about the annual migration of the monarch butterflies and other insects.  However, plants sometimes migrate also.

     For plants to migrate, seeds must be carried to the new location.  This may be accomplished by winds or by animals.  For plant migration to be completed, the conditions in the new locale must be favorable for the germination of the seeds and the development of the plant.  For many years, most of southern Indiana was in the USDA plant hardiness zone 5, where minimum winter temperatures were said to drop to twenty degrees below zero.  However, as the climate has changed, our minimums now are closer to 10 degrees below zero.  That 10-degree difference places us in zone 6 now, and a whole new group of plants will tolerate that minimum.

     That can be both a blessing and a curse.  Twenty years ago, one rarely saw crape myrtles growing in Indiana.  Now, the combination of breeding plants to tolerate colder temperatures and the climate change has made the summer bloomers quite common.  Native plants that grew farther south have begun migrating northward, increasing the possibilities for our landscapes.  This also enables the animals that feed on these plants to also migrate northward.

     On the other hand, it opens us up to a whole new group of invasive plants that could potentially alter entire ecosystems.  Kudzu has long been called “the plant that ate the south”.  Kudzu has now been found growing in southern Indiana and is moving northward.  This aggressive vine can cover trees and even houses in a short time, smothering the native plants.  This also means that the wildlife that needs the native plants to survive will move out of the area.  Another dangerous plant that is becoming increasingly common in southern Indiana is poison hemlock.  In addition to taking up the growing space of native plants, this plant is seriously a threat to anyone who touches it.  The threat is so serious that organized eradication efforts need to get underway.  If the plants mature, the seeds produced will be carried and this dangerous plant will continue to migrate.

     Awareness is the key to living with plant migration.  Everyone needs to be alert to plants that may become problems, but at the same time to welcome the chance to grow new things. 

In the Garden

Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener

     It is the time of the year when people are planting to beautify properties for the summer.  Nothing welcomes visitors more than cheery flowers by the door, whether planted in the ground or in pots.  Mixed pots can spruce up porches, pool sides and just about any other place where guests are entertained.

     If you have been to the garden centers or greenhouses lately, you may be in sticker shock at the price of bedding flowers.  If you need several pots to achieve the look you want, it can get expensive.  However, there are some ways to save some money and still have attractive arrangements.

     Direct sowing of seeds is a great option for the flower beds.  Sure, it takes a few weeks for them to reach blooming size, but the price of seeds is a lot lower than the price of bedding plants.  You may sow seeds in pots also.  I like to use a central plant, but sow seeds of a filler plant to complete the look in a few weeks.

     Many of the big retailers discount plants when they look bad.  Since most such stores do not have people who really care for the plants, that sometimes does not take long.  Those sales may make it possible to fill your containers without much expense.  Impatiens, coleus and other popular bedding plants root quickly in water, and cutting back those rangy plants will give you plenty of cuttings to root.  It will also rejuvenate the original plant.  With some careful pinching, you should be able to get full-looking plants in a few weeks, and flowers until fall frost.

     Another source of plants for containers is your perennial beds and those of friends.  Many perennials actually benefit from being divided, and those extra plants you get when doing this may be used to fill your containers.  Some hostas may join impatiens in a shade container and day lilies mix well with zinnias and marigolds in sunny locations.  In the fall, the perennials may find new homes elsewhere in the garden, or you may leave them in the pots for the winter.  Many of these tough perennials will survive the winter and you may just plant around them next year.

     Garden cuttings may also fill containers.  Many perennials benefit from the “Chelsea Chop” this time of the year, and many of those cuttings will result in new plants if placed in a potting mix.  Hardy mums, tall phlox, asters and tall sedums are among the plants that will give you new plants in this manner.  This also fulfills a landscaping rule:  repetition of plants makes a garden seem more cohesive.  Having the same sedum in a container by the front door that is growing in a bed by the fire pit in the back yard shows that the garden has been well-planned.

     Finally, your houseplants can become a part of the landscape.  You may not have to uproot them.  Place several plants with similar water and light needs in a large pot and use Spanish moss to hide the individual pots.  The lush growth that summer brings will soon make the arrangement appear as a well-planned container garden.  You may also have plants in the house that need some pruning, and starting new plants may give you plenty of material for summer containers.

     It does not take breaking the bank to create curb appeal and beautiful containers.  Use your imagination and do not be afraid to experiment.  You may just find a combination that you will want to use again in the future.

In the Garden

Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener

     It was probably by chance thousands of years ago that mankind learned that adding the manure of animals to their fields resulted in larger plants.   It was the first fertilizer, and has been used for that purpose ever since.  However, now there are some who are asking all gardeners to refrain from using manure and manure products to fertilize gardens where edible plants are being gown.  The situation is complicated and each gardener must make up his or her mind about using animal wastes to fertilize fruits and vegetables.

     There is no doubt that animal waste is a good source of nitrogen that is needed by plants.  The bio-mass also improves the tilth of the soil.  Initially, the only problem was when there was more nitrogen than the plants could use.  You can get too much of a good thing.  Not only can excess nitrogen burn the plants, it washes into streams and contaminates the water, resulting an algae.  Too much manure may also make the soil too acidic for many plants.  Manure may also contain viable seeds that will sprout in the garden as weeds.

     Composting the manure with leaves and other brown matter will take care of most of these problems.  One should use a hot composting method, allowing the pile to heat sufficiently to destroy seeds and pathogens.  Once the compost has reduced to a crumbly mass and has lost the methane smell of manure, it is ready to be added to the garden.

     However, composting does not destroy everything that may be in the manure.  If the animals ate plants grown on land that was contaminated with heavy metals, those contaminants passed from the soil there to the plant, then to the animal and finally to the animal waste.  Composting, even with high heat, will not destroy this type of contamination.  There may also be residuals of pesticides, hormones and antibiotics in the manure.

     E. coli and salmonella may also be present in manure.  In recent years, there have been disease outbreaks that have been traced to the use of manure on food crops.  The situation here is quite complicated.  The Tonka trucks in the crawl space that occupied my leisure time as a child have been replaced by electronic devices for many children today.  Playing in the dirt actually helped build up a resistance to E. coli and salmonella, but in the antiseptic environment of today, we fail to produce those antibodies. 

     For these reasons, some health-care professionals have called for a ban on the use of manure as a fertilizer on food crops.  So far, there has been no official ban, but growers who use manure could face lawsuits if people become sick after eating food produced in this way.

     If you are not selling your produce, and you are reasonably sure that the animals whose manure you are using have not been given hormones or antibiotics and have not been pastured on contaminated land, you may go ahead and use the manure after composting or by making manure tea.  I have tried to present the situation here, but it really is very complicated, and I urge you to look into the matter further if you use manure-based fertilizer.  Safety of the food supply is the ultimate goal.

In the Garden

Ralph Purkhiser, Purdue University Master Gardener

     This week is the busiest gardening week of the year.  Garden centers are gearing up for the crowds that are likely to be there on Saturday.  For many garden centers, the Saturday before Mother’s Day is the busiest day of the season.  Flowers are the natural gift for Mother’s Day.  Moms are nurturers, and most appreciate a gift that they can appreciate all summer.   Whether you go for hanging baskets, bedding plants or a tree or shrub, a living plant makes the perfect gift.  A mother will care for that plant and be reminded of the love that came with the plant.  If you are fortunate enough to have your mother on this earth, get to the nearest garden center and find your mother’s favorite flower.  I sure wish I could buy a big hanging basket full of peach-colored begonias for my mother.

     Even without Mother’s Day, this would be a busy week for gardeners.  We should now be frost-free for several months, and that means the growing season can get underway.  Whether you are setting flower transplants in landscape beds or putting out a vegetable patch, it is time to get plants in the ground. 

     Vegetable or flower, most of these plants have been grown inside and need to get used to the conditions of the garden.  Set the plants outside for a day or two.  Put them in an area where they will be shaded from the mid-day sun.  Watch the forecast, and if the night-time temperatures fall below 50 degrees, provide some protection.  After a couple of days, the plants will be hardened off to the outside conditions and are ready for transplanting.

     Whether transplanting a simple posy of a large tree, I recommend using a root-stimulating fertilizer when planting.  I prefer a liquid fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow Quick Start.  After setting the plant in place, water it in with the mixture, which will provide the nutrients needed to stimulate root growth.  Better roots means the plant will adapt to the new location quickly and will begin to put on top growth within days.  Getting plants off to a good start is the most important part of having a successful gardening season.

     Mulching after planting is also a great way to improve the chances for the young plants.  I recommend using an organic mulch, which will break down over time and supply food for the plant.  In the landscape, I suggest using shredded bark with a layer of cardboard beneath it.  The cardboard will help to prevent weeds from growing through the mulch.  The mulch will help keep the soil temperatures even and will also keep the moisture level constant.  In the vegetable garden, one should use an organic mulch that will break down over the single season.  Straw, shredded leaves and shredded paper are good options.  If using shredded paper, I suggest wetting the paper before putting it in place.  This will create a papier mache that will remain in place.

     It is also time for me to move the houseplants outside for the summer.  You may continue to keep the plants indoors, but many of the plants will appreciate the warmer summer temperatures and do not do well in air-conditioned homes.  Even if the plants have been in a sunny window or under grow lights, adapting to full sun will take some time.  As you take the plants out, put them in a shady location with some protection from the wind.  I take the sub-tropical plants out first; they will tolerate some cool temperatures without being damaged.  I will wait a couple more weeks to take out the most tender plants.  Grouping plants according to their growth needs will make it easier to care for them.  Cacti and succulents may be put together, while water-lovers do well around a fountain.  My houseplants will thrive outside for a few months and will add to the beauty of the landscape.