In The Garden

It is time to take down the “Shhh, The Garden is Sleeping” sign.  I put that sign at the end of my walk every fall as a reminder that there is still activity during the winter months.  However, the garden is definitely awakening now.  This past week, the earliest daffodils began blooming at Sandhill Gardens.  The hellebores continue to put on a great show.  Each day, it seems another clump bursts into bloom.  I have been very busy getting the old foliage cut away, but still have some clumps to attack.  It really is the only thing I have to do to the hellebores each year, so, although it is time-consuming, it is worth it.

As we turn to March on the calendar, there are a lot more garden chores to do.  Over the weekend, I had some very capable help in the garden, and took advantage of that to put down cardboard and mulch in the bosquet I planted last fall.  (For those who may not have read that column, a bosquet is a circle of small trees, planted to create a garden room.)  A table made from a treadle sewing machine base is now in the middle of the bosquet.  I plan to place a bonsai specimen or some other potted plant there when the weather gets warmer.

You have probably seen articles and social media posts urging you to wait until temperatures are consistently in the fifties to clean up the garden.  The reason is that many insects over-winter in the debris from last year’s garden, and will not emerge until temperatures warm.  However, if I were to wait until temperatures reach that level, which will likely be in mid-April, I would never get everything done before it is time for other activities.  Therefore, I have started the clean-up.  However, most of the debris will be stockpiled at the edge of the woods, where the insects will still be able to live.  I may later chip up the debris and add it to a compost bin.

The fifty-degree rule is really a good suggestion, but gardeners should not feel obliged to wait to clean up the garden.  Do not feel that you are doing something wrong by cleaning your garden.  It is, after all, your garden.  I do encourage everyone to do what you can to help the environment, but cleaning your garden is not going to destroy the planet.  There are still going to be plenty of wild areas, at least in rural southern Indiana, so your garden represents only a small portion of the environment.  As for me, I will clean up areas near the house first, and move out from there.  The wildflower meadow and other edge-of-the-woods areas will be the last and will probably not be touched before the insects emerge.

My garden tends to be a little messy, but that means good habitat for the local fauna.  It is a certified pollinator garden and wildlife habitat.  However, that is my preference, and I would not expect everyone else to garden this way.  I have a friend who loves plants, birds and butterflies, but cannot stand clutter.  Her garden is very different from mine.  She likes individual plants to stay where planted, and the garden is more a plant collection than a habitat.  That is what she likes, and that is OK.

My point is that no individual home garden is going to wreck the world.  With the internet, there are crusaders who cling to a particular view and seem to wish to tell everyone else how to garden.  One of these issues is the planting of native plants versus using non-native or exotic plants.  My hellebores, hostas, daffodils and peonies are all non-native plants, but they are an important part of my gardens.  Even though I choose to include exotics in my landscape, I probably still have more native plants than the average garden.  After all, my favorite flower, the purple coneflower, is a native.

My advice remains to garden in a way that pleases you.  I do encourage you to limit the use of chemicals and avoid truly invasive plants, but do not feel that you have to garden in any particular fashion.  After all, any garden is better for the earth than no garden.  Have fun and enjoy this coming season.

Spring has finally arrived!!!  The cool temperatures are helping spring flowers to last longer, so the landscape is stunning right now.  In a well-planned garden, spring perennials provide a lot of color and food for early pollinators without a lot of work.  At Sandhill Gardens, the hellebores and daffodils continue to dominate the scene, but there are a lot of plants playing supporting roles.  The first of the flowering trees are in bloom.  The vivid pink of American plum and the delicate pink of the flowering cherries supply great contrast in a single color.  Various colors of crabapple and serviceberry are in tight bud and will soon open.  The first azaleas have bloomed in a vivid magenta.  Bloodroot’s bright white flowers have graced the shade garden, while purple and white windflowers fill in throughout the garden.  Lungworts continue to supply blue, pink and white accents, and the first of the bluebells have brought the sky to the ground.  Epimediums in red, pink and yellow give some airy quality to the shady areas.  Pink and blue muscari dot the lawn areas and hyacinths of white, purple and pink perfume the air.  It is really a magical time in the garden, and the work was done in prior years.

That does not mean there is nothing to do in the garden.  It is time to clear out the debris left from last year’s garden.  Where possible, cut stalks to about a foot tall, leaving the short stalk as a home for bees and other insects.  Those stalks will also provide some support for the young plants that will be growing in and hiding the stalks.

In the vegetable patch, it is tradition to plant potatoes on Good Friday.  It is also time to plant peas, which I prefer to plant along a fence or some type of trellis.  You may now safely plant cabbage and other cole crops and most leafy greens actually prefer the cool growing conditions of early spring.  Onion sets may also be planted any time now.     There is also still plenty of time for seeding tomatoes, peppers and other warm-season crops indoors.  Most seed packets recommend starting seeds six to eight weeks before the last frost date, but you may plant transplants in the garden as late as the end of June and still expect a harvest.  Of course, the harvest will be later, but that may be a good thing.  You may disrupt the timing of some pests.

I have received some questions concerning potting mixes that do not seem to be able to absorb water.  That is normal.  Many of the mixes are based on coir fibers or peat moss, both of which may dry out.  The dry mixes will be lighter, and that saves shipping costs for suppliers.  If you have mixes that do not seem to absorb water, you will need to stir in water before planting seeds.  I use an old fork and add water slowly.  When the mix is moist, but not soggy, it is ready for planting.  If you have a bag of soil, you may pour water into the bag and let it sit for a day or so.  It will absorb the water and be more hospitable to plants and seeds.  It is also important to keep soils moist to get good germination.  Check the planters every day.  Keep a close eye on anything you have on a heating mat, as the heat will cause soils to dry out more quickly.  If you have seeds already planted in dry mixes, you may be able to salvage them by placing the tray in a larger tray with some water.  The soil will absorb the water from the bottom.  Once the seeds have germinated, you will need to discontinue letting the tray sit in water, though you may water from the bottom and pour off what does not get absorbed in an hour or so.

Do not let the work keep you from enjoying the beauty of the spring garden.  As the poet, Robert Frost, noted, nothing gold can stay.  The garden changes daily in spring.  Take time to walk around and enjoy what changes each day.  If you do not have a garden to enjoy, come and visit me at Sandhill Gardens.

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I got back from a trip to Indianapolis over the weekend and found hellebores in bloom at Sandhill Gardens.  This is a signal that I have work to do.  The foliage from last year needs to be cut, and as the new foliage come up, it makes it difficult to cut the old.  It is time-consuming, but it is best to use some sharp scissors or pruners and cut one stem at a time.  Trying to shear off clumps will almost certainly result in cutting off flowers and the foliage for this year.  The good news is that this is the only real care the hellebores will need for the year, unless I decide to dig some and re-plant them.  For this work, they will reward you with blooms that sometimes continue into July and nice foliage that adds a different texture to shade gardens.  I have a couple of clumps that have variegated foliage, adding another form of interest.

In addition to the hellebores, winter aconite and some early crocuses are in bloom.   These are tough flowers, and though very cold nights may cause them to wilt down, it will not kill them.  Actually, the cooler weather will cause the blooms to last longer.

In a recent column, I gave instructions for winter sowing of seeds that need a cold treatment for stratification.  Now, it is getting time to begin sowing seeds for tender plants.  This must be done inside or in a hot bed, as these plants will not survive freezing temperatures.  For vegetables, including tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, count back six weeks from our frost-free date to get the date to sow them.  May 10 has traditionally been that day of being safe from freezing temperatures, but it has been a long time since we have had freezes that late.  Also check the “days to germination” information on the seed packet.  Some peppers are slow to germinate without bottom heat, so they may need to be sowed earlier.  If you do not have a heat mat on which to set them, you may want to put the trays on top of your refrigerator until they have sprouted.

Caring for the seedlings inside can be a challenge.  Started too early, they tend to get spindly before time to set them out.  This is usually because they do not get enough light.  If you want to grow good transplants, consider purchasing a grow light with a timer.  Leave the light on for about 16 hours a day to give the plants the light they need to develop properly.  If you have a sunny window, you may be able to grow without a grow light, but, just as the houseplants we discussed last week, they will need to be rotated frequently to keep them growing straight.  The plants will grow toward the sun, which means they will grow toward the window.  Keep an eye on them.  They may need to be turned more than once a day!

I have had some questions concerning cold frames and hot beds, and how they are different.  In general, they are the same on the surface, but a hot bed has a heat source.  Usually, rotting manure in the bottom of the bed supplies heat.  If you wish to build a hot bed, dig down about a foot.  Fill that area with fresh manure.  Horse manure is favored by many, as it gets hotter than some other manures.  Then you need to build a frame around the bed, and fill the frame with compost or garden soil.  The bed then must be covered with glass or clear plastic to hold that heat in.  You have to watch the bed daily.  If it is a sunny day, the temperature in a hot bed may get too hot, and you will need to open the top.  The outside temperature will be the deciding factor on just how much to open the bed.  Sometimes, it just needs to be open a few inches for ventilation, and other times it needs to be fully open.  Just be sure to close the lid if freezing temperatures are predicted at night.

Crops like cabbage, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower and related crops do quite well in a cold frame, but tomatoes, cucumbers, squash and other warm-season crops will need the heat of a hot bed if you wish to start the seeds early.